Los Arcos

Today the weather changed! And we have had a hint of the heat that Spain is famous for.

I thought there was another big climb this afternoon, but discovered I had finished it already when I reached Villamayor de Monjardin, where there was a beautiful Romanesque church. (I love the sparsely decorated rounded architecture.) I thought the descent would be ´no sweat´, but as can happen on the Camino, I found the going tougher then!

There were lots of beautiful wildflowers out all along the way this morning, and we passed vineyards and wheat fields. After Villamayor there were still those, but it was over 12km to the next town (Los Arcos) and it seemed to take forever, much of it flat and spreading out without any signs of habitation. And finally the sun shone. I had a ´crisis of confidence´ ie how will I ever manage to walk in Spain when it gets hot? I am still not sure that I will, and a bus to Leon is a possibility! But once I had lunch, and a talk with some friendly Irish guys, I felt better!

The sun is shining this afternoon, great for getting some washing dry and the lines are full. Have my name down for a foot massage soon. And at 6 the church will be open for us to have a look...apparently it is magnificent. Then at 7 the Irish have invited me to the meal the Oz Mick is cooking for them. Actually, he is giving directions as he has his arm strapped up, and it might be like Ramsay´s Kitchen, so they have told me to come to eat not to see the cooking! What a full calendar I have!

Estella

Mud was a theme again today! But oh it was worth it, as the road missed some precious pilgrim places. We left Puente la Reina a little later than usual (7.45am) and crossed over the famous pilgrim bridge. That was the first of quite a few bridges during the day that were reminders of all the medieval pilgrims who have passed this way over the centuries. And - news flash- it didn´t rain all day today, so I even got photos of many of them!

The best pilgrim sight of old would have to have been the approach to Cirauqui. There was some real mud to contend with as we approached this hilltop village. But the view of it on the hill as we drew nearer was something very special.

At Lorca lots of people stopped for lunch. Met up with Mick from Oz again, minus his pack as he has dislocated his shoulder. He slipped in the mud a day or so ago, in the same place where two other men slipped and hurt themselves. The mud really is quite treacherous in places at present, but today´s sun and wind will have helped to dry it out a little.

The plan was to stop at a hotel-restaurant, with meals and a dorm, near Villatuarta, and make a slightly shorter (18km) day. But we never saw a sign to it, and had passed it by. So Estella it is for the evening, in the municipal albergue together with many others I know from recent days. Have had a wander to the PO to post home my big jacket, so saw many historic buildings on the way. Spain is awash with glorious buildings.

Had another wander and saw the cloister behing St Peter´s church: Lots to treasure in this town.

Puente la Reina

Enjoyed my night in the Jesus y Maria Albergue, with no great snorers nearby! Set off earlyish as wanted to do 25km to Puente la Reina if I could, and knew there was a bit of a ´mountain´to climb and descend. It was great to look out this morning and see that it wasn´t actually raining.

I was concerned I would get lost somewhere in Pamplona, but the signs leading you out of the city are very large and well positioned so made it safely out. Passed lots of interesting parks and buildings that would be well worth a day or two of exploration, but maybe that can happen another time: for now I need to get as far as I can across northern Spain before it gets too hot! The inner city was basically still asleep as we left town just after 7am, so it was peaceful walking there. When we reached the outskirts of the city, there was a sign saying you could get your credentials stamped at the university (where they do Jacobean studies), and several of us did that. Then followed a walk beside a busy road until we reached Cizur Minor, with the morning ´rush hour´of pilgrims before and behind me. (Before long they are usually mostly ´before´!)

On today´s agenda there was a climb up to near some windpower turbines, then up to a sculpture at Alto del Perdon of some pilgrims, where everybody inserts themselves and takes photos! So I was hoping for some sunshine to get a photo of myself there, It has been a fond dream. And now it is a reality! It was a bit of a climb up to the top, that would have been very easy compared to the Pyrenees climb, except for the mud. Mud mud mud. The views at the top were great and I got to eat lunch up there with quite a few others. Then came the descent. Rained a bit for that. Had a snack at Uterga in renewed sunshine, with quite a few others, then walked on to reach Puente la Reina. Haven´t explored yet.¨Raining again! Storks are nesting on top of the nearby church steeple - young quite large now. But haven´t got a photo of them, as they disappeared with the rain!

Pamplona

Wet, wet wet! Strangely enough I don´t mind the rain as much as some others do, as I have walked a few wet days in New Zealand bush in my lifetime! But the mud does get fairly tricky and you need to concentrate.

Met a group of young Spaniards en route today and we shared a few snacks under the shelter of a church porch. Like most Spanish churches, the church itself was closed, but the shelter in a little village suited us fine. They were impressed by my few words of Spanish and I was impressed by their good humour and sharing.

Walked most of the morning beside the river which was very high after all the rain, spreading out to cover tree trunks that would usually be on the banks, and it was very full and fast-flowing.

Am suffering from city-shock this afternoon, with arrival in Pamplona! I realise that over the last two weeks, I have been in many small villages where pilgrims were quite a ´normal´part of the landscape, then in the mountains. When I arrived on the outskirts of Pamplona with my muddy boots on, lots of people were out taking their Sunday walk. I got the feeling that I looked like some kind of alien from outer space!!!!

However, the walk into the city of Pamplona for pilgrims has been very well planned, and I felt very much like a pilgrim of old. We crossed two old bridges, and when I entered the city walls via the Francia Gate, complete with drawbridge, I felt very much part of something centuries old. I used my minimal Spanish to get someone to take a photograph of me as I entered.

Then followed a slightly manic walk through the city streets, part of which I realised was through what must be a night-time clubbing district. Lots of people, including huge groups of children, are out on the streets. It is a shock to my spirit which I guess is still residing somewhere in those beautiful mountains I crossed!
The Cathedral is closed at present as it is Sunday, but I think there is rosary at 7.30 so I guess I can go and get a lookie then. Tomorrow morning I have another shorter mountain to climb so will need to leave earlyish.
PS Did get to the rosary, which was followed by a procession around the church, complete with some very beautiful Spanish singing. So at least had a lookie.

The Snorer from Hell!!!!!

OK OK OK I have become used to snorers in the dorms. Mostly I have discovered that I sleep anyhow, as they only snore a little while then stop. And I am usually happy when I end up in a room full of women as that means no snorers.

BUT last night I met the snorer from hell...... and she was a woman!!!!

It amazes me how the snorers always seem to go to sleep very quickly. In the dorm the bunks were arranged with two almost right together, like a double bed. I had copped a male snorer right next to me in Roncesvalles, so was relieved to find there was a woman this time. Hmmmmm. Wrong!

She began very quickly. I bumped her and she stopped. She must have changed to the top bunk as a result while I went to sleep.Then it began and continued........

At 3am there was a procession of people to the toilet, which was in an outside building. I doubt that most really needed the toilet, but the conversation in the toilets was about the snorer from hell!!! The guy on the other side of her had bumped her with his pillow. The young English woman next to her on the top had had no sleep. At 3.30am she moved over to the toilet block for a break.

At 5.45am, much earlier than I had intended to rise, I got up and had breakfast outside. Now I am ready to depart, and the snorer from hell, who must have had a great night´s sleep, has arisen. If only we spoke the same language, I would ask her which albergue she is planning to sleep in tonight!!!!

OK guys, I am off to Pamplona, and the tracks are bound to be very very muddy!!!

Catch you later... plenty of internet in Spain!

Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Stayed in the refugio in Roncesvalles last night and it was amazing. The thought of 120 people in one dorm seemed almost overwhelming, but I had seen pictures of the beautiful inside of the building, and others had said that you had to stay there for the atmosphere. It was wonderful. There were kind Dutch hospitaleros who greeted you and helped with any queries. They also played various appropriate kinds of music that seemed to calm what could have been a riotous room! At 9.45pm some of the lights went off and bedtime music ensued: At10pm all was calm. At 6am the lights all came on, and gentle wakey wakey music ensued.

I attended the Mass and blessing for pilgrims in the Church at 8pm which was a special time even though it was all in Spanish!

I was quick enough off the mark getting out of bed, but then saw the rain pouring down outside. How lucky that we crossed the moutains in the previous two days. This morning cloud was down low and the rain was heavy, so perhaps people crossing would have had to take the lower road route rather than the beautiful Napoleon Route we took.

Had breakfast in Berguete with everyone else. The adjoining gymnasium seemed to be pressed into service for wet packs and coats etc. Lovely countryside again, descending. Reminded me of the West Coast with hills and mist.

Slow walker as usual. Didn´t want to end up in the Municipal refugio here in Zubiri as I heard someone recently here had bedbugs: But the other albergue is full and I haven´t easily found the pension alternatives and am too stingy for an expensive hotel. So I have checked out my bed thoroughly and hope it is OK. If not I guess I will be doing remedial stuff in Pamplona tomorrow!

Had my first tumble today but am fine. I had descended all the way down a tricky hill, slippery with mud and slippery stones. Was on the concrete path at the bottom then I slipped! Took heavy tumble onto my front. Thought I would have smashed my camera on waistband but it seems fine and I am fine. Lucky I had my longjohns on for the rain as they gave protection.

PS No bedbugs... the other person must have struck one bad bed. But the snorer from hell was there.......

Crossing the Pyrenees -Wow

I have just had two magical days. Left SJPP yesterday morning for the uphill climb to Orisson, the first stage of crossing the Pyrenees. After days of rainy walking, this day dawned sunny. The climb passed through beautiful mountain countryside, reminding me very much of home. The first grunt out of SJPP was very steep, but then it became less steep until a sign saying there was 4km to Orisson, when the gradient increased. I was pleased to find that after weeks of walking I was able to take it in my stride, just kept going at my rhythm, and before morning tea time I had arrived at Orisson. That was after stopping to enjoy the view of eagles swooping about in the sky, alongside a young Spaniard. How absolutely magnificent. I tried not to feel guilty as others kept going past Orisson the whole way over the mountains. A lemonade on the terrace enjoying the view in the sunshine certainly helped with getting over the guilt feelings!

In the evening after dinner the most amazing rainbow I have ever seen crossed the sky over the mountains, with a faint double also visible. There was a Canadian father and his daughter nearby enjoying their first evening on the Camino: what a special moment to share. Lyne and I sang a little towards the mountains.

Today for the main part of the climb and the Pyrenees crossing, the weather could not have been more ideal. It was sunny but not too hot. And the views were just spectacular. We were all just so lucky to walk in such conditions. It clouded over a little as we reached the highest point, about 1400m, but stayed calm and warm enough. Then as I descended the Abbey appeared in the valley below, below a hillside covered in trees.

Tonight I am staying in the big dormitory here at the Abbey, that can take 120! So I am not sure how much sleep will be had, but I have seen a photo of inside the building itself and it is magnificent, with stone walls and a high rounded ceiling. Have booked for the pilgrim´s meal at 7pm and there is a Mass and pilgrim´s blessing at 8pm. So I am in Spain... a new part of the adventure begins.

St Jean Pied de Port

It has been lovely the last few days getting closer to the Pyrenees, getting occasional glimpses of them. I really enjoyed an evening at Aroue in the gite communal with about ten others. It was raining most of the afternoon and we all stayed inside. I got some laundry done and dried in ther dryer so that was good! But in the evening it cleared, and some of us walked to the church, which had some interesting modern stained glass as well as a twelfth century portal over a door. Then in the porch I sat and watched as the mountains emerged from the clouds, and the last sun of the day moved along them. I found that quite magical, and hauled all the others outside into the cold to look!

Next day there was quite a bit of rain again, but amazingly it cleared very quickly to give an afternoon of brilliant blue skies with white wispy clouds. At the gite there was a big terrace and lots of outdoor seating, so everyone was outside sitting in the sunshine enjoying the views. It was also the first day to meet some of those who have walked two other paths through France. In my room were three other ladies, one of whom had started in Bretagne, and the other two had taken the Vezelay route. They met in Bordeaux and became a threesome. The woman from Bretagne was an inspiration as she has very sore feet now but shows untold determination. One of the other women has very limited sight and is being unobtrusively supported by her friend.

Yesterday I walked from Ostabat to St Jean Pied de Port. There has been quite a bit of rain lately so the beginning of the track was quite muddy. I was tempted to change onto the road which was more direct and shorter, but am pleased I resisted that thought. The Chemin took a tranqil path through the countryside, passing through a few villages. It was a time to be thankful for all the places I have had the opportunity to walk over the last six weeks on the Chemin.

When I arrived at the Porte de St Jacques, it was a proud moment for me. I am not sure exactly how far I have walked, as figures vary, but somewhere around 750km. I got someone to take a photo of me at the gate. They were glad to oblige, then wished me "Happy Holidays". If they only knew how hard it was some days!!!!!!!

I am staying in Esprit du Chemin for two nights and it is lovely there. Last night there was a mixture of people who have been walking for a while, and others who are just beginning or re-starting. A lovely German woman was in my room and she is climbing for Orisson, part way up the mountain, now. She asked me to ring and reconfirm her reservation as my French was so good. It has been funny lately as a few people have used me for translation! After six weeks talking to many French people in the gites, my French has improved.

Anyhow, the sun is shining and I am going to go walkabout in SJPP. Next time you hear from me I will hopefully be in Spain!

Getting close to Spain!

I feel like I am getting near to a big plughole that is about to scoop me up and deposit me in Spain! But it won't actually be like that: I have a big mountain pass ahead of me to climb. Today we saw the line of the Pyrenees for a while from Arthez. Had lunch on some seats near the church overlooking the magnificent and somewhat scary view of how steeply they arose from lower down. Fortunately I have managed to reserve at Orisson, part way up the climb, so that should make life a little easier. I am also having a rest day in St Jean Pied de Port which I need; so that is great. I am at Esprit du Chemin there: they keep a proportion of their beds each day for people walking through from Ostabat so I qualify for that.

This week getting accommodation was very hard as several big groups seemed to be around at the same time. I got the last bed in Arzacq: it was a single room, not very expensive, but with my very own shower, toilet and basin - what luxury! Last night I was in the gite in the village of Uzan, in a house opposite a farm that ran it. Unlike NZ, the farms had their houses clustered in this village - there were cows in a barn right next to the kitchen- but then the various fields are scattered about. They had 32 cows, half of which were milked, and the other half were young ones. The husband is busy ploughing and planting at present, something we have seen a lot of in this area.

I had to carry my food to Uzan, as there are no shops there. I was still hungry. Then today my pack felt like it weighed a ton. I discovered tonight that I had more food that had slipped to the bottom that I had forgotten I had!

Weather has been pretty good for walking lately, neither too hot nor cold, nor wet. But it did rain all morning today; though it was warm enough. Then it cleared at lunchtime for a sunshine view of the Pyrenees. I wonder what the weather will be like for the climb!

Tonight I am in a very rural gite again at Cambarrat, and it is just lovely here. My Quebecois friends, Lyne and Denis, are also here, and we are climbing the mountain the same day and staying at Orisson together. I have booked for my next few days - Navarrenx, Oroue, Ostabat then two days in SJPP before the climb.
Dinnertime -catch you again!

In Aire sur l'Adour

Well, I am a slow poke compared to many others, but I am gradually getting closer to Spain! Today marks five weeks since I left Le Puy.

From Eauze I moved to Nogoro; which has easily been the least inspiring town I have stayed in. No real heart to it, after staying in so many towns that still have their medieval squares at their heart. Plus I stayed at an odd gite, that was in a beautiful house, but the service didn't "feel right". Only an English couple and me there and they agreed. Could be a great gite run by someone else. (First two from England I have met- and I can add them to my English speakers score to make eight in five weeks!)

Last night I stayed in the countryside at gite duBarry. They are building a new gite, and meanwhile we found ourselves in a house. It was very relaxing there and we all felt very much 'at home.' I was with some new people, and three I have walked with often now, including Lyne and Denis from Quebec. We had a lovely meal with lots of scrummy veges.

Today I have arrived in Aire sur l'Adour after quite a short walk. There are a lot of pilgrims on the road in this area now, including lots of groups. I am staying in a lovely new gite set up by two former pilgrims, but Lyne and Denis found it hard to get a place; and the lady in the Tourist Office stayed for 20 minutes of her lunch hour ringing around to find them a place. My next job is to go and use the telephone cabine to try and make some more reservations, but I keep getting answerphones, which is tricky as they can't ring me back. (In another life I would definitely buy a portable phone in Paris to do this trek!)

There is a welcoming place set up for pilgrims in the Cathedral here so am about to go along there too; plus they have a blessing of pilgrims at 6pm. As we walked this morning we passed a little place that someone had set up for us to rest at. These efforts are always appreciated as you walk.

I am very well, though the mossies that are thriving in the muddy places under the trees seem to find me far too quickly! I hope to be in Spain by May 30th, but not sure what impact tight accommodation will have. Until next time!

Eauze

Well, well, well, ain't I doing well with the internet lately! There was quite a thunderstorm yesterday evening, followed by rain all this morning. But it was quite light rain, and it wasn't cold, and I quite enjoyed it! I stayed in the Relais St Jacques last night - in Montreal-du-Gers - with several others I have come to know quite well lately. My French has stopped improving as there are two Quebecois who have been practising their English with me, and who I look to for a translation when I don't understand. There was just one hard working lady doing most of the work where we stayed... as well as demi-pension for all of us, she serves a midday meal in the restaurant, so she doesn't get much of a break.

This morning we walked through lovely vineyards early on, getting greener quite quickly. A trifle muddy in places, but I have walked in worse! Then we got onto an old railway route where they have lifted the rails, so it was less muddy. I loved the peacefulness there under the trees, listening to the raindrops fall. (Would have been lovely shade on a hot afternoon!)

Had lunch under a kind of medieval arcade I have seen in a few places now. There was also a large school group sheltering, about 11- 12 years old. I relished the fact I never had to teach them!

Have had a slight recurrence of the ankle problem I had at home, but know how to stretch so need to do it. Also got a homeopathic product from the pharmacy. Was worried about how to explain what I wanted, but one of my French speaking buddies did the job for me!

It is supposed to be really wet here this weekend, then warm up to be quite hot. Oh joy! Who knows what will happen...

Time to go exploring again!

Condom

Bizzare as it may appear to all you English speakers out there, I have now reached a place called Condom - and it raises no smirks here as the French have an entirely different word for the same product! There is a magnificent Cathedral just up the hill a bit, but for the time being I am ensconced in an internet cafe, out of the rain which is lightly falling. There has been hardly any rain recently, so it makes a change, and I am sure will be very much welcomed by all the local farmers who have seedlings of melons all planted.

I am well into the south of France now, and ever since Moissac have been seeing lots of cultivation. There are huge fields of wheat with their ears developing well, and fields of all kinds of vegetables; as well as orchards and a few vineyards. It has been warm some days, but not too bad.

I have had quite a few short (16-20 km) days lately. Where the choice is between a long haul of 30+km, or two shorter sections, I opt for the shorter sections - so I guess my progress has slowed a little. But many of the places I have stayed have been towns/ villages with signs of their medieval past still evident, including of course their hill-top positions, which require a climb! Last night I stayed in La Romieu, where there is a huge old Collegiale Church that was tied up with a Cardinal and lots of intrigue many centuries ago. The gite was in an old convent, and the dormitory was superb, high ceilings, lots of big windows and hence light, and beautiful gardens with roses - which were quite a feature of the whole town.

The night before I was in Lectoure, right across the street from a thermal complex where they had massaging spa pools - trouble was of course I had no swimsuit! The woman running that gite has walked the Camino herself, and reminded me a lot of Diane S from NP for those who know her. The night before I was in Miradoux, in the home of an elderly woman called Therese who has cared for pilgrims very generously for a long time now.

OK time to get out of here and go exploring! It is always easy to walk in sandles, without the big pack on!

Moissac

Today I am having a "rest day" here in Moissac, where there is an old abbey building and cloister. I went to Lauds this morning and heard the nuns sing the office - quite a heavenly sound. I have just explored the cloister which has all sorts of sculpture. (Pilgrim price here too - cheaper- but all those kilometres of walking is a hard way to earn it!)

Yesterday was quite hilly to start with, and leaving Lauzerte was leaving the Lot catchment behind. Here in Moissac I will pass the confluence of the Garonne and the Tarn when I depart in the morning. Moissac is very much "on the flat" which is not something I have become used to. Tomorrow the path leaves by the Canal du Midi so it will be a "flat day" for a change.

I am staying two nights in a gite run by a lovely Irish couple, which is great as I can speak English for a change. They have a baby and yesterday evening I told the baby all about New Zealand while the parents cooked dinner. They had two Kiwis stay here just a few days ago, so the baby will be well educated about New Zealand!

Ok time to explore a little more. Happy Birthday Maureen if you don't get my postcard on time - I am going to post it soon! This afternoon I am looking forward to indulging my feet in the "foot spa" that they have at the gite!

Lauzerte

Today I had a shorter walk to Lauzerte, a village that has an abundance of medieval buildings. I had grown a bit used to the flatter tracks of the past few days and wasn't quite prepared for a few climbs, even though they were much easier ones that I met earlier on the Chemin! (I know enough French: I should have known that 'Mont' in the name of a village meant a climb!)

Mud was there in a few places today, but it was not as pervasive or as clinging as yesterday's. There was quite a lot of bush shelter on the path, but when the sun came out I could tell from its heat that I have arrived more in the south of France.

A lot of wheat is grown in this area and it looked wonderful as the wind blew through it. With ploughing done on some fields, and wheat and other crops in other fields, it was a fascinating patchwork.

I arrived near 1pm without having eaten as the track was a bit muddy, then I saw the village of Lauzerte loom high on a hill above me. My heart sank a little. But then I discovered a restaurant right near the corner, and had the pelerin's menu. The climb up the gite then became quite simple!

The gite is one some others recommended to me, Les Figuiers, and the welcome was very warm. As there are a lot of people on the road who started May 1, the place is full, and as a woman on her own I have been privileged to be given a bed in the house itslef with my own toilet. It is not the first time I have been spoiled like this either! I can't speak highly enough of the welcome in so many gites.

Lauzerte village has many restored medieval buildings, and was well worth some time exploring; and the lemonade in the cafe in the Square was pretty good too! The view from the top over the countryside was amazing.Tomorrow I go to Moissac where I am staying two nights in a gite run by an Irish couple. Longer walk again tomorrow to get there.

Catch you again soon I hope!

In Montcuq

Time seems to be passing quickly, and I am heading south. Stayed a night in Vaylats in a convent; and there was an elderly Swiss couple there who are walking the Camino to celebrate their 52nd year of marriage! And they are here again in this gite tonight. Quite something. He carries most of the gear and she carries a smaller amount.

Next day was a longish walk to Cahors where the whole dream of doing this started really. It was a very hot afternoon and I ran out of water. In the amazing fashion of this Camino, someone ran after me to give me some fresh cool water that a local had given them. The kindness was even more restorative than the water.

Next day I only walked 5.5 km as the further gite was full; but Domaine de Mathieux was a superb place to stay, surrounded by trees. And it was raining anyhow so I was quite glad to be out of it! Today has been overcast etc but perfect conditions for walking; except for the think mud this afternoon!

On Thursday I reach Moissac and stay there two nights in a gite run by an Irish couple. He was able to spell my surname!
OK gotta go. Am well and meeting lots of friendly people and staying in many very welcoming gites.

Limogne en-Quercy

Well, I am getting in the groove here now, and can hardly believe I have been walking nearly three weeks! Someone told me that the walking got easier after Conques...... and they were right except for one thing...... it is the day after the day after Conques when it gets easier! Out of Conques is a big ascent that follows the rule of the Chemin from Le Puy: for every descent there is an equal and opposite ascent. I have had this rule in my mind for some time now, but almost cracked up laughing when a French person started saying much the same thing in the gite last night.

From Conques I had two long days of about 25km to reach Figeac. First of these days I enjoyed the climb out of Conques, and the view back over it, then it began to rain incessantly. Not so much fun, (especially as I had a little stomach problem and couldn't clean up. Enough said!) But the welcome at the gite in Livinhac en Haut was superb, and the lady there helped eveyone get their stuff dry and clean as needed after the rain. And the local parish had a welcome for pilgrims with drinks and nibbles that was very warm and friendly. And the camping place came and picked us up in a car to take us to dinner to avoid the rain. Such kindness, and I would have to say I have experienced a lot of it in the gites. Staying in them has been a wonderful experience in itself.

Next was Figeac, a lovely old city to wander around. En route this day I met some lovely people; and many of them I shared the evening with in the gite, but others have gone on ahead more quickly. You seem to build quick friendships with other walkers, and I sometimes feel sad when I know some are walking faster and I won't see them again.

From Figeac it was some 30km to Cajarc which I felt was too much for me, so I broke the journey at a camping ground where I had a chalet to myself, and a very comfortable bed to sit on and view the spring showers with my feet up. What luxury! Then I hit Cajarc yesterday after a day of peaceful walking in easy terrain with lots of trees and good weather. The gite Le Pelerin was very well run and friendly. Today was another lovely peaceful, warm day of walking and I am now in Limogne en-Quercy. So you Kiwis will all have to search for a good map!!!

My French is going ahead by leaps and bounds as I get to talk to so many other walkers in the gites.
OK until next time! I should hit Cahors on Sunday, three weeks after leaving Le Puy. It was Cahors where I met so many walkers two years ago that I got this idea!!!

Music in Conques

The life of a long distance walker is sort of 'different' - and a little bit of a world of its own, as I am finding out. When you have spent nearly two weeks walking the landscape, passing through just villages in the main, it seems odd to come to a place full of visitors who are not walkers.

But Conques has its very own remedy against 'strangeness' and it is music. The Romanesque church is narrow but very tall, and somehow it does magic things with sound. I think I have been fortunate, and this weekend quite a few amateur groups have been singing here. This afternoon were some who had travelled all the way from Marseille. And the fathers who run the Abbey are very welcoming; so somehow the place switches easily from song to prayer etc when it needs to. I am not a 'good' Catholic - but the music in that church this morning made it all a celebration of something very joyful. I look forward to a bit more music this evening before I leave in the morning!

Conques

Today is a gorgeous Sunday here and I am spending it in Conques, which has a monastery church set in the middle of a valley. It is a beautiful morning, and I have just climbed down to see the old pilgrim's bridge. I was pleased to find it was quite easy to climb back up after two weeks of practice climbing up and down many many hills!

I can hardly believe that I need sunblock and t-shirt so soon after needing all my layers in the snow and rain!

This whole region, Aveyron, is beautiful, quite remote, and not at all heavily touristed. I spent the night before I got here in Golinhac, which had a view over the valley just to die for! The lady at the camping ground spoiled me. Instead of spending the night in the gite with all the men snoring, I got a room to myself in a chalet.

There is lots of good company along the way. Some people I only see once; as they are travelling a lot more quickly. But others I see again and again, even when you think you have said 'Goodbye', as people take shorter and longer days in different places. Lots of good food too, and as this is not a touristy area - except for Conques today- the prices are really reasonable. The gites are clean and comfortable, and wonderful places to meet others.
OK time to explore more of medieval Conques. I went to a concert last night in the church and the sound was just superb echoing up in the tall arches.
Catch you somewhere else en route!

day 10 of walking

I know you are not being at all well informed but I am alive and well and have now been walking for ten days. Still have 11 kms to go today so this is just a quickie en route.

Arrived in Le Puy on April 12th. Very beautiful set in a volcanic basin, and I guess I got to see it at its best in the sunshine. Got to climb the volcanic plugs to a stature of Notre Dame of France and a chapel. On the Monday morning I went to the pilgrim Mass and received the blessing from the bishop of Le Puy, who also spoke to me in English. I was the only English speaker there that morning though I have since caught up with a couple from Wellington.

Lovely days, very varied, walking from Le Puy. Sometimes the views were just superb, sometimes the countryside was quite desolate and isolated. Second morning there was snow on the ground at Montbonnet and it was magic walking up into the forest, so quiet and beautiful. After my first six days the real pilgrimage began when I crossed the Aubrac Plateau and it was very very cold and wet. Magic moment was arriving at Aubrac itself and seeing the domes of the old monastery/church looming out of the mist, much as they must have for medieval pilgrims. However, I have come down the other side, along with quite a deluge on the track!!!! and this morning am using the internet in Espalion, before carrying on 11 more km for the night in Estaing. It is sunny today and I am even in shorts and sunhat! It is very green and verdant here and the flowers are out all along the route, whereas on the Aubrac it was very much winter. Have one big blister on a toe after the rain. Socks drying out beautifully on the outside of my pack today!

Gites I am staying in are mostly used overnight just by other walkers and are very friendly. Often have demi-pension with superb home cooked meals. Last night was in historic building and dormitory looked straight out over twisted steeple of church od Come d'Olt.
Ok gotta get going. Just letting you all know I am alive and well, writing this in Espalion!

On the way!

There is very little internet here, but today I have found some, so can tell everyone that I am well! I am loving the walk very much. The countryside is beautiful and always changing. So far I have taken it gently and only walked about 15km per day. Last night there was snow in the little village of Le Faux. I have seen a French family from Anjou all week but they finish today. Thus is such a wonderful thing to be able to do, and I have to keep pinching myself to know that it is real.

I think I will have to create a blog on my return from my dairy about this trip..... but for now, greetings to all, and I will blog when I can. I need to get walking again now as there is quite far still to go today!