Sunday, June 01, 2008

Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Stayed in the refugio in Roncesvalles last night and it was amazing. The thought of 120 people in one dorm seemed almost overwhelming, but I had seen pictures of the beautiful inside of the building, and others had said that you had to stay there for the atmosphere. It was wonderful. There were kind Dutch hospitaleros who greeted you and helped with any queries. They also played various appropriate kinds of music that seemed to calm what could have been a riotous room! At 9.45pm some of the lights went off and bedtime music ensued: At10pm all was calm. At 6am the lights all came on, and gentle wakey wakey music ensued.
I attended the Mass and blessing for pilgrims in the Church at 8pm which was a special time even though it was all in Spanish!
I was quick enough off the mark getting out of bed, but then saw the rain pouring down outside. How lucky that we crossed the moutains in the previous two days. This morning cloud was down low and the rain was heavy, so perhaps people crossing would have had to take the lower road route rather than the beautiful Napoleon Route we took.
Had breakfast in Berguete with everyone else. The adjoining gymnasium seemed to be pressed into service for wet packs and coats etc. Lovely countryside again, descending. Reminded me of the West Coast with hills and mist.
Slow walker as usual. Didn´t want to end up in the Municipal refugio here in Zubiri as I heard someone recently here had bedbugs: But the other albergue is full and I haven´t easily found the pension alternatives and am too stingy for an expensive hotel. So I have checked out my bed thoroughly and hope it is OK. If not I guess I will be doing remedial stuff in Pamplona tomorrow!
Had my first tumble today but am fine. I had descended all the way down a tricky hill, slippery with mud and slippery stones. Was on the concrete path at the bottom then I slipped! Took heavy tumble onto my front. Thought I would have smashed my camera on waistband but it seems fine and I am fine. Lucky I had my longjohns on for the rain as they gave protection.

PS No bedbugs... the other person must have struck one bad bed. But the snorer from hell was there.......


  1. Hola Margaret,
    The weather should start clearing from tomorrow. Take care on those slippery paths! If you haven't already got two walking poles, it might be an idea to find a walking stick that is made for you!
    You sound so positive and cheerful in spite of the rain, the crowds and the tumble. Well done girl!!
    Pilgrim hugs,

  2. What I would pay to be there right now! The Roncesvalles Abbey is a special experience, as you say. Hope you enjoy Zubiri. I remember sitting by the river and reading a book after a magnificent day walking to get there.
    Buen camino.

  3. I have been loving it sil... though today I have a bundle of wet washing, wet socks, wet shoes....and last night had the snorer from hell!!!!!!
    John, I guess my memories of the Zubiri bridge will be of the big tumble I took just before reaching it... and the rain meant sitting calmly by the river wasn´t an option yesterday!!! It is interesting to find the way the weather changes people´s view of places....