Camino Quiet

A slideshow of photos from my Camino, Le-Puy-en-Velay to Santiago in 2008.

Camino Reflections

I was inspired by Johnnie Walker for this. He did some reflections on the Camino, using his own spoken commentary with photos. I have done much the same thing here about my walk in 2008 from Le-Puy-en-Velay in France, to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, northern Spain. (These reflections are already on my Camino blog in a longer written form, and I have just edited them down a bit.)
You can see it on YouTube here.

My Camino in Spain -Youtube slideshow

I have been making various slideshows of my Camino photos, and this one is of the route I walked along the Camino Frances. It starts from St Jean Pied de Port in the south of France, across the Pyrenees, then along to Santiago in Galicia in north-west Spain.

The music you might find a bit repetitive and not all that interesting.... but I have been experimenting using Garageband and I am only a beginner ;-) (We all have to start somewhere!)

The long way home!

Monday we journeyed to Finisterre...by bus! It was a fitting end to the journey to walk to the lighthouse at the "end of the world".

And since then I have been "on the way home". I took two trains from Santiago back to Paris. The first, daytime, didn't take the same path as the Camino, but it traversed the same landscapes. First the lush green of hilly Galicia, then the flat more barren expanses of the Meseta, much drier than when we walked there a few weeks earlier. Lastly the climb up towards the edges of the Pyrenees, though this time it was often through tunnels when the going got steeper! I reached Hendaye after nearly 12 hours in the train, then slept in a couchette overnight to Paris.

My first job getting back to Paris was to visit Singapore Airlines to try and find an earlier flight home. I was very impressed by their service, but the flights out of Paris were very full and I remained wait-listed Thursday evening... I rested two days with ny friend at Bonnelles, a peaceful place outside of Paris, then headed to CDG to try and get a flight on stand-by. Success! And now I am at Singapore for 12 hours awaiting my onward flight to NZ. I will be tired at the end of all this, but eventually I will be home!!!

Santiago!!!

We only intended going to Arzua from Melide, only 14km, but another 15km to the next albergue...But when we arrived and it was only 10.30am, and it wasn´t raining, and all these new pilgrim albergues were on the unattractive main street, we decided to continue....

Spent the night in a pleasant pension at Brea. Real sheets but the snorer #2 from hell- and again a woman! But that left us in striking distance of Santiago.

Next morning it was very humid for our last start, and before long it had turned to constant rain - not hard rain mostly, but more than drizzle. By the time we were getting closer to Santiago, it was very misty in the rain, and you could hardly see ahead at all.

So that led to an easy decision: we stopped at Monte de Gozo, five km from the Cathedral. I had heard about this place and it sounded like army barracks, but it was actually very pleasant. It is all divided up into well separated cubicles with room for eight in each, and the hospitalero was very friendly. Lots of people we had seen on the way also stopped here... Big advantage..you can stay three nights, so we were able to make the last walk with only a day pack, and leave the big pack here at MdG, and come back on the bus!!!

This morning we left soon after 7am so we could get to the Cathedral Square while it was still quiet. We met several people we knew on the way...

Soon after 9am I found the Pilgrim´s Office and joined the queue to get my Compostelle. The French couple just ahead of me in the queue knew how far I had walked, and pushed me in ahead of them when it was their turn... The young woman who served me was very pleasant. All the people on the list just ahead of me were students who had started in Sarria. My two credentials were full on both sides and didn´t need much checking, and I now am the proud possessor of a Compostella with my name on it in Latin!

Went to the pilgrim Mass at 12...jam-packed.. and lots of people circulating while it was on..... young pilgrims were given some parts to play. Spied a man we had met sometime ago on the track... so lovely to see him again. He finished several days ago, but walked on to Finisterre. (I will take the bus on Monday!!) Had lunch with him and L and D. A celebration!

Lestedo and Melide

Well, interestingly, the day after Portomarin, the tracks didn´t seem quite so crazy-full of people. So I guess we just struck more than a few weekend groups on Sunday, and/or that the big crowd has now moved further ahead than us! We are still finding it easy to get accommodation, and it seems like we are here in a ´lull´before the big holiday crowds descend.

Yesterday we left soon after 6am again, and it was quite misty. We headed down the hill to where a footbridge crossed over the dammed river/lake, and crossed it while it was still darkish. The next bit of the walk headed uphill through some beautiful forest, and for the first time I used my little torch to light the way a little.

We planned about a 20km stretch to Lestedo, in the countryside, rather than head for the next biggish town. The day´s walk passed through what was evidently a very historic part of the Camino, and we passed several signs that indicated where former hostels and cemeteries for pilgrims were located, as well as several small churches and very old looking crosses. There was Celtic settlement here as well. (In fact, every time I have heard it, the local music has been very similar to Irish music.)

We were very happy when we reached Lestedo, to find that the spot was indeed very tranquil. There was room for just 10 in the small albergue; the bunks were comfortable and well spaced out; the shower room was huge; and there was a comfortable lounge to relax in, as well as a large garden. Perfect for not walking far! And the promised rain never started until it began drizzling a little in the evening.
Someone told me that a group of ten(!!!) New Zealanders were staying in a Casa Rural not too far away, but so far I haven´t met up with any of them. I haven´t met 10 fellow Kiwis in the whole time I have been walking so it is amazing that there should be that many within a few hundred metres of me.

This morning at about 5am I had my first taste of proper Galician rain, when it woke me up as it thundered on the roof. Thankfully, by 6am it had all eased off again, and though we walked under skies that were threatening at times, we only needed our raincoats for a short period.

It was lovely walking again, a lot of it on leafy lanes and past little hamlets, and to be sure there are rich rural aromas in places. We crossed several old bridges and saw many small churches, and that always gives a sense that many pilgrims have passed this way in bygone centuries.

Melide is quite a big centre, but the path into it was very pleasant, partly through a forest and a little village where we had our credentials stamped in the church. Even when we need to walk near roads in Galicia, they are usually very quiet ones, and the path for us is well separated off.

We are staying in the Galician albergue here in Melide, and I wasn´t sure I was going to stay here as I had heard bad things about how dirty it was last year. However, although the bunks are quite cramped, the new organisation managing the Galician albergues appear to have cleaned things up a bit. There is a Christian group outside singing, and they have made Paella for lunch etc. I haven´t had any though as I don´t want to be hauled into a witnessing-type convo..... chicken that I am!!! (Actually I am probably safe as I doubt any of them speak English though I might be wrong!)

Only 50km left to walk, and we are expecting to walk into Santiago on Saturday.... Then I will hopefully head to Paris on Tuesday. And I am longing for some blob-out time. Still don´t know how long it will be before I can get a flight home.... have heard nothing more about my wait-listed dates so far.... Am looking forward to some nice long rests on my own bed though!!

Portomarin

Yes... Spain won the European Soccer Cup! We went to bed early but the news was obvious when all the hooting and tooting started in the roads outside!

Started early today and it was cool to begin with. The last couple of hours getting into Portomarin have been quite warm though- but I gather we might be seeing some of the famous Galician rain tomorrow...

There were some lovely leafy walks down quiet country lanes again today. Coming into Portomarin there was less shade, then we came to a place with flags including a South African one... so Sil... I didn´t see Gordon but I enjoyed one of the cold drinks he provided and left him a note saying hi from you.

The nature of the trail has completely changed after Sarria, as many are just doing the last 100km for their Compostella. Track was crowded!!! And I found that a little hard to handle! However, we quickly found a quieter albergue with a cubicle for 3 that L D and I am sharing. Off for a shower in a minute.

Not sure when I am coming home. Tried to change my flight dates but things are full from Paris via Singapore to NZ all July. So time will tell! Might have to buy a little tent and go camping somewhere.....

In Sarria

Triacastelo was a little town with a street that had quite a few small private albergues and a couple of restaurants, and pilgrims tended to sit at bars and watch the world go by...

This morning it was misty and I wondered how it was on the top of the mountain: was it clear and sunny with a view down to the misty valleys like yesterday when I walked? Or was it misty up there today as well?

It was a bit of a climb this morning and then a bit of a descent. But I was in love with the walk the whole way: this part of Galicia is certainly very leafy and green. And although the mist may have hidden some of the early views...... it kept things cooler which I am always glad about! The walk was partly on very quiet roads and partly on farm tracks. At one stage I came out of a small village bar where I had had a second breakfast, to find that the cows were being herded along the ´main street´. I took a photo as the Freisan dairy cows passed by....

The mist began to lift around 10.30am, and by 11am it was starting to be a bit sunnier, and soon Sarria appeared in the distance below. I thought that I might perhaps continue onto the next village where there was a small albergue, since it was cool enough still. Sarria looked quite large and I was a bit worried about getting lost.... but shells soon appeared in the footpath....

I was heading up the main historic street to pass on out of Sarria, passing several albergues, when I heard my Quebec friends call out... we had been in different places for a few days. So I forgot my plans to go on. They had certainly picked out a comfortable albergue: Don Alvaro. The atmosphere here is lovely, and so are the facilities. There is a foot bath outside with jets of cold water. There are sun loungers where I spent an hour relaxing. I feel I could easily stay here another day on holiday!!

In Triacastela

I am glad I decided to stay on in O´Cebreiro for the night. The weather stayed clear all day (though a cool breeze got up later) and the views were magnificent all day. A woman at the restaurant told me they had been having a lot of misty days with no views, so I struck it lucky. It was great to feel like I was on top of the world for an afternoon.

This morning I rose early and the glow of dawn was visible over the mountaintops. A special moment. There was a bit more climbing to do, to a couple more peaks... I was surprised to see heavy mist nestled down in a few valleys well into the day, as I was walking in such clear sunshine.

It got a bit wam near the highest peak, but a lot of today´s walk was shaded by banks with trees, or under shady pathways. The path passed through several farming villages where people were hard at work. The hills were beautiful and the green reminded me of home....

And now I am in Triacastela, and am about to have lunch then go exploring....

Two Mountains- one misty, one sunny!

A while since my last catch-up! Skip San Javier if you are in Astorga: bunks are crowded under the roof area and the dorm was really hot!

However, the next day was a great one, with the joy of heading towards mountains again. There was thunder and lightning as we left Astorga, but it never rained where we were. (Heard the next day that they had huge hail in Molinaseca that caused huge damage.) We walked on a path that had many wildflowers. At one stage we had the company of an elderly Spanish man, whose opening comment was that nature was so precious.... Lyne gave me her Quebec badge from her hat today, so I am an honorary Quebecois pilgrim now!

Monday evening I stopped in Rabanal, run by the London-based Confraternity of St James, and their albergue is the most welcoming I have been to in Spain. I got to meet Brendan, from the Santiago forum, and his wife, and another Irish couple. All four were hospitaleros for a fortnight, and they made everyone so welcome, chatting outside for a large part of the afternoon and evening. Rabanal is a lovely village that you see as you start climbing towards the mountain with the Cruz de Ferro.

Next morning was the climb to the Cruz de Ferro. It wasn´t long before I was in mist, and it was not to be a day of views. But it meant it was not too hot for walking or climbing either! It was an easy climb, a few hundred metres spread over quite a few kilometres. The cross itself is known to be a place where pilgrims leave stones for sins etc.... I chose not to leave anything. My friends L and D had been looking forward to this spot but were disappointed by the mess some people had left there. I was surprised by how small this cross was....

I had decided that I was not going to push on another five km to the next village anywhere I didn´t have to, if it was too hot. But the mist fooled me. It rose just after I left the last village before Molinaseca, so I ended up walking in the heat anyhow!

Next day I stayed in Cacabelos. The best thing here was that they had massages on offer in the evening at the albergue. So I booked in for a leg massage, and it was wonderful timing for me. My leg muscles have been feeling very over-used... and the massage released all the tightness and the pain. So good walking now!

Yesterday I followed my new heat rule and stopped walking in a little village called Trabadelo after 20km. The municipal albergue here was lovely and so very clean. There were only five of us here and I was the only woman, so I got a room to myself, and I was the only one using the women´s toilets and shower room!!! I also used the washing machine and dryer to wash all my gear: I had a whole lot of bites on my back after the night in Cacabelos, not sure if they were bedbugs or a mosquito.... but am trying to eliminate the chance of carrying anything on....

Today was the last significant climb of the whole journey, to O´Cebreiro. I was a bit concerned my shorter day yesterday would end up with me climbing in too much heat, but I actually enjoyed the climb very much. I am quite fit now, and just take these things at my own pace. The views were gorgeous on the way up. I was sweating like a pig, but so was everyone else. The bars along the way were doing a roaring trade!!! And I have decided to stay the night here in O´Cebreiro in the new revamped albergue. The village here is historic and looks very interesting. So I am about to go and have a spot of lunch then go exploring. I haven´t even had a shower yet- that´s what internet addiction will do to you when you have a new fix after several days!- But I figure I will only get sweaty again anyhow!!

Only 150km to go now folks. Seems amazing but everyone is now counting down the days until we finish walking!

The heat has arrived!!!

Ok I know all you Kiwis are going to kill me now.... but the heat has arrived here! I was glad to get nearly right across the Meseta before it did though. It has been around 30C the last few days, though it is a lovely dry heat at present, not humid. Have been starting walking at around 6am which is as soon as it gets light here, with sunrise around 6.30am. That way I get in a couple of hours of lovely cool walking. But this morning it was already very warm by 10am.

Left Mansilla de las Mulas with very good memories. The hospitaleros there were lovely. There is an older man who has nurtured a huge number of geraniums that are in pots all around the courtyard, making it a lovely place to sit and talk to others. There was a younger woman hospitalero who was great as well, and she did an excellent job of helping people fix up their foot problems, with a huge amount of good humour. (Lots of people seem to have got blisters with the increased heat: I haven´t yet, touch wood.) Met Tom and Tania, young Kiwis, there. Discovered I went to school with Tom´s aunty, and that he was at FDMC where my nephews have been.....

We left Mansilla on what started as another very flat walk into Leon. The full moon was hanging in the sky as it lightened for dawn. A magic walking moment. And we needed to treasure it, as later that morning we started a lot of highway walking that lasted until this morning. At one point we had to cross the highway into Leon at what seemed like an incredibly dangerous spot, just around a bend where oncoming cars could not see us crossing, and we could not see if they were coming or not. Seven of us crossed at once....

Leon was an amazing city with many beautiful buildings. I will have to come back another time as a tourist though to see them properly. For now, I feel the need to complete this walk before it gets too hot. So no holidays like I had in France! My favourite place in Leon was San Isadora where they had a library that had many original manuscripts. I had visions of the monks working hard on them!

Yesterday there were quite a few kilometres to walk to clear Leon, then a lot of the walk was beside the highway. Not the most interesting day. But I stopped at San Martin de Camino in a friendly municipal albergue. It looked a bit rundown from the outside, but it had a lovely cool dorm, shady trees and a shady porch, and there were only ten of us but we enjoyed each other´s company.

This morning it was hot by 10am, but a lot of the second part of the walk I took the back country option and passed through some villages and farmland again...much more fun than the highway, even if it was hot!

Have arrived in Astorga on Sunday afternoon when a lot of the interesting buildings are closed again!!! In another life I will be a tourist. Tomorrow we begin the first real bit of climbing for some time as we head up some mountains. It is supposed to rain!

Mansilla de las Mulas

Enjoyed the albergue yesterday evening. Lots of sunshine and it was pleasantly warm sitting outside in the shade. Restaurants just over the road for dinner.

Have reached the last town before Leon today. Flat walk and quite warm. Trees have been planted along the side of the path ever since we crossed into the Leon province. In a few years they will be giving very welcome afternoon shade. We have stopped here after 19km, leaving a 20km walk into Leon tomorrow. Finally it is getting a bit warmer now, and we were glad to stop at lunchtime to relax!

The albergue has a very friendly atmosphere. It has a large courtyard area and someone has planted a whole heap of geraniums that are in pots all around the walls. They look glorious in the sunshine.

It has warmed up quite a bit today and must be high 20s. So it will be early to rise and lunchtime to finish for the last 20km into Leon tomorrow. I am so glad I got across most of the Meseta before the heat came. And perverse as I am, I don´t mind if summer leaves again next week, though I don´t know what my chances are!

El Burgo Ranero

Yesterday afternoon I became a car tourist with Rebekah and her husband, and saw a little of Saghun that I would see again walking this morning. But it was great to see it yesterday, as the Camino trail did not reveal any of Saghun´s treasures. There was a church that had been built by Moorish builders, and a museum that held the Holy Week items that are taken in procession around the town. These are very explicit and very Spanish.

Back in Moratinos, Rebekah took me on a walk around her tiny village, which really is tiny. We saw their bodega, which was a lovely cold place where they used to make and store wine. Her husband cooked a delicious dinner while we were out... And I retired to a comfortable real bed with real sheets for the night, having dried myself with a real towel after my shower. These are luxuries I do look forward to enjoying again!!!

This morning I let myself out early -6am-ish, as I thought it was about to turn hot. First few kms of the morning from Moratinos I had the trail all to myself, and looked back to see a beautiful sunrise sky. Well away from the road on this bit of the trail, I loved the landscape. At the next village I saw the storks on the church starting off their days, and caught up with three Mexicans just leaving from that albergue.

Quite a bit of the next bit of the trail was in hearing distance of the road. I somehow imagined the Meseta was going to be more isolated than this. They are harvesting rye here at present so there is a little bit of an idea of how barren some of the land might become over summer.

It was flat easy walking, and the sun came out, but did not get to much above 24C, so made for nice walking. I had intended to stop after 20km, but decided to keep going the next 8km as the next two days promise to be a bit hotter, getting into Leon. Leon seemed so far away when I entered Spain, and I am nearly there.....

Today I am in the Albergue at El Burgo Ranero. There is a bar-restaurant over the road with pilgrims sitting outside... time I went to join them. L and D want to know all about my adventures yesterday when I left them and took a ride in a vehicle!

Moratinos- or how I skipped 12km of the Meseta!

Really enjoyed staying with the Augustinian sisters in Carrion - they had some shared singing at 7pm, on the seats and in the stairwell, and that was a great event for those of us who joined in. Left soon after 6am this morning as I was expecting a long walk, nearly 30km, longer than my usual day, to get to Rebekah´s in Moratinos.

The Meseta hasn´t been as I had expected, mainly as it has been so green rather than barren, but also because it hasn´t been as isolated. It has passed through quite a few villages, and has often been near to the road. Today started off near the road, but after a few kilometres it moved off away from highway noise. It was quite a long stretch from Carrion to the next village, 17km. Somewhere in the middle of nowhere someone had had the enterprise to set up a bar with drinks and food available, and the smell of a bbq taunting those who never chose to stop! I was one of those carrying on as I had so far to walk today........

In a quiet section of the track, when it felt like Lyne, Denis and I were the only ones around for miles, and the churchtower of the 17km village loomed ahead, we stopped to strip off outerlayers and put on sunscreen. We saw a car appearing in the distance so needed to move off to the side. The car continued towards us slowly, then stopped. The person on the driver´s side asked L&D if they had seen a New Zealand pilgrim called Margaret. Lo and behold, there I was on the other side of the car! Rebekah Scott, had come to collect me! And thus I skipped 12km or so of the Meseta, never ever to walk them, and climbed into a car.

Rebekah is the first fellow blogger I have met in real life. She was a fellow member of the Santiago forum I was a member of before I left for the Camino, and I have read her blog. She lives in Moratinos, which is a small village on the Meseta. Moratinos seemed so awfully far from anywhere when I saw it on a map before coming into Spain. Now somehow, it marks a point nearly halfway along the Camino Frances, and does not seem like it is so far from everywhere!

Rebekah and her husband were on the way to pick up rubbish in a picnic area known to get messy. When we got there I took a rubbbish bag as well to help soothe my car-guilt! (Not real guilt: after 1100+km I feel no guilt!) What amazed me was how many pilgrims we passed as we drove back along the track. It had seemed like L&D& me were the only ones for miles!

And I have been enjoying Rebekah´s hospitality here in Moratinos. We talked for a while, then had lunch. I have only just woken from my siesta in a proper bed with sheets! And my bedsheet and a few other clothes have had a wash in a real washing machine! I felt like I could have slept the whole day through....but it is a lovely afternoon here now and it is time to explore the village a little....

Carrion de los Condes

Yesterday evening in Fromista they opened the Romanesque church that sits in the same square as the albergue. It has been largely restored, and is absolutely a gem. Pilgrim price =student price... there has got to be some payback for all this walking!!! Then I spent some quiet evening time under the plane trees nearby that have been pruned and trained to make a ¨roof¨ in summer. Again lots of birdlife zipping around.

I wasn´t all that impressed with the boring males in the albergue yesterday who seemed to sleep all afternoon and go to bed really early. Boring lot! And they were matched a bit by the boring walk today - flat, flat, flat, and all along the roadside. Not too busy a road, but I guess we all prefer the quiet of the countryside. The weather wasn´t boring today though- quite changeable with the raincoat on an off.

Arrived in Carrion de los Condes to the parish albergue run by some Augustinian sisters. They were so welcoming at the door. And there is singing this evening that we can attend and I am sure I will enjoy that.

Tomorrow I am getting up to leave at 6am as I plan a longer haul than usual if I can - hope to meet Rebekah in Moratinos. I followed her blog before I even left home.... Moratinos seemed so very far from anywhere and now I am only about 30km away from it!!

Fromista

Really enjoyed the Iterga albergue yesterday, in the centre of the village, and the people running it were natural and friendly. Only 6 of us were there, and we two women had a non-snorers night in a different room from the four men! Just around the corner by the church was the municipal albergue, which looked quite nice as well, with only 12 single beds spread around the edges of a large room. Only four people staying there. Not so many walkers seem to be on the Camino here, and many of those we see are walking 30km or more days: it seems like many others have left out the Meseta. Quite a few of the young hard-out walkers have serious blister problems, but they don´t seem able to slow their pace to let them heal. I noticed a pilgrim health poster in English and the top thing on it was to walk at your own pace and not someone else´s.

The most wonderful stork´s nest was on top of the Iterga church - quite the biggest we have seen and seemed to have two babies in it.

Last night Spain was playing soccer. At half time when our meal was being served, body language from our host expressed the fact that she was sad, and the Spanish team were lazy. Just before the end of the game, we heard the loud cheer from the bar just down the road: Spain had scored in the last minute to win the game! Our host was then all smiles again. Reminds me of home!

This morning the forecast was for 65% chance of rain: seemed hard to believe as we sat under blue skies yesterday evening. But it did rain... though mostly not too hard. Meseta remains very green with all this rain! Not wet enough for mud though. Second part of morning´s walk was alongside an irrigation canal, and I could heard birds and frogs.....

I am stopping here for the night even though it is only 14-15km for the day. It is too far for me to the next stop after Carrion tomorrow, so no sense going on a few kms more today to a little place where I might not get to eat on a Sunday!

Itero de la Vega

Found lots of people to talk to in the sunshine under blue skies- finally- at Hontanas yesterday. Seems like a few of the ¨slower¨people like myself have skipped the Meseta: since Burgos I have met up with many more people doing 30km+ days. Some of them are managing fine, and some of them are absolutely crippled with blisters and tender feet. I think they are missing out on a lot of the human contacts and sights that you see when you go a little slower, but each to their own!

The Meseta is not as hot and barren as I expected. It has been such a wet cool spring that things are still very green and there are plenty of wildflowers around. Today it was warmish by the time I finished, but probably not much above 22C.

From Hontanas it never took too long to reach Castojeriz, and it was a very pleasant walk in the cool of the morning. There were a couple of bars along the way to stop and talk to others at. I was hoping to shop there, but only found a hairdresser open. However, as I had no shampoo left, that was my most urgent purchase made! Catrojeriz had many interesting buildings. One day I will come back in another life as a tourist and visit them when they are open!

It was a 10km stretch across the Meseta next. Started off with a climb and then got a superb view back over where we had come from. Saw the next village in the distance and then descended and never saw it again until nearly upon it. Lots of birdlife. I suppose the most isolated parts of the Meseta might yet be to come, but I was suprised that it did not feel particularly desolate as I had been expecting. I suppose in summertime when it is all dry and barren it feels like that. At present there is a real tapestry of different greens and it is amazing.

Passed San Nicholas chapel around lunchtime. Some Italians were in there eating, and I was able to go in as well. It has been superbly restored to its medieval beauty. Beautiful stamp for the credential.

Am staying the night in Itero de la Vega in a friendly albergue in the middle of town. Feels very ¨Spanish¨and I feel quite at home. Time to go have that siesta time in the sun again!

Burgos, Rabe de Las Calzadas, Hontanas

Left Ages early and wandered slowly through Atapuerca. Couldnt visit archeological site, but thought about early humans who lived there....

Long walk into Burgos and young Canadian with me made me walk all of it and not cheat and take the bus the last 8km. Then had to walk to municipal albergue in a park near the edge of town... but all my old buddies turned up there too so that was grand. Caught a bus back into town later to see the magnificent cathedral of Burgos. But it was almost too much to see all that richness after walking past so many wheatfields and vineyards and staying in simple villages...

Yesterday instead of a rest day, L and D and me just walked 10kms for a rest. Cant believe I describe 10kms as a rest. Stayed in Rabe de las Calzadas in a place that only took 8 pilgrims, and gave a very personal welcome. Both the husband and wife have done the Camino many times over the last 22 years, and the husband had collected up many Camino souvenirs, statues, artworks etc into an amazing museum.

Today have walked on to Hontanas. The Meseta began early this morning with a bit of a climb. It is all very green and not too hot at present =only about 21 degrees maximum= so I found todays walk very pleasant. Walked past lots of wheatfields. Lots of birdlife. Saw one small dead snake by the roadside. Now going to sit in the sun for a while. Catch you soon.

Granon, Tosantos, Ages

A few days since I posted......

Headed for Santa Domingo on Sunday and was hoping to hit the time for the main Mass. But when I got there at about 11.30am, the church was firmly closed, with no signs of any bells ringing, and it was raining. It looked like a really interesting town, with lots of historic buildings, but things tend to be closed on Sundays, and I decided to move on a few kms to Granon. Good move - had one of my most enjoyable evenings of all. I stayed in the parish albergue, which was up behind the church: you got to climb up the steps that headed up towards the belltower. The hospitalero who was there for two weeks was from Leon and he was a really lovely guy. He made everyone welcome, and cooked a wonderful evening meal for us all. He also acquired some firewood, and a fire really added to the atmosphere, with people taking turns to sit in the seats around there. The whole place had a really comfortable feel to it. This was yet another day when I wished I had kept my windjacket as it was bitter outside!

Next day headed for Belorado. Cultivation in the fields changed from mainly vineyards and wheat, to more potatoes as well as wheat. It was fairly muddy underfoot in places. I had thought I might stay in Belorado, but when I arrived there was heavy machinery working in the street near the church, adding to the muddy feeling I already had, so I decided to move on a little further to Tosantos, mainly to shorten what looked like a long walk over a mountain for today.

Tosantos was a christian-run albergue. The hospitalero was another wonderful cook and we had a great meal to set us up for the ´mountain´. In the end, the ´mountain´today wasn´t as bad as it looked on the altitude chart! There was a climb of several hundred metres, but it wasn´t too steep. Then what I wasn´t expecting was a loooooooong flat stretch at the top. The mud was less than I had feared. We walked mainly on what seemed to be a forestry access path. Finally the path emerged at a monastery, San Juan de Ortega. They had beds there, but I decided to move a little further, to Ages, so as to make tomorrow´s trek into Burgos a little shorter. I am not sure whether I will take the bus 8km through the industrial suburbs or not! But if I do it will let me have more time to see the cathedral etc. We will see. I am really near here to Atapuerca, where there is a fascinating archeological site I have read about before - where they have found some of the earliest human remains in Europe. I would quite like to stop off and have a nosey, but have only seen info about guided tours in Spanish that you need to book... so I guess I will end up in Burgos tomorrow, though you never know!!

My ankles are quite sore today. Need to learn how to stretch my achilles properly. And now I am off to do just that!

Azofra

I had a lovely night´s sleep in the Albergue at Navarrete. There were just four bunks - eight people- in quite a large room, so we had plenty of space, and the window was open by general agreement so we never got too hot. By the time I went upstairs from the concert at 9.15pm, most people were already settled for sleep, and people didn´t begin stirring until after 6am. It was more like the better sleep that I tended to get in French gites..... It is not yet hot in Spain so there is usually no need to get up so early as some tend to do.....

This morning´s walk was mostly past vineyards: Rioja is clearly an area with many vineyards and we passed two big wineries. We reached Najera in time for lunch, after passing through quite a long industrial area on its outskirts. It was quite a poor looking town. We found a beautiful spot by the river to sit down and eat some lunch, then hoisted our packs for the next 6km to Azofra, which is also quite a poor looking town. It is almost embarrassing to find that the albergue is in one of the flashest buildings in town. It is just five years old, purpose built. No Bunks. I am sharing a two bedded room with a Dutch woman I first came across at Orisson when she passed through doing a one-day stint across the Pyrenees.

It is surprisingly cool here in Spain, cooler than in southern France. It never rained today, though many times it seemed close. I could have worn the jacket I have posted home for much of the walk!!! But I was warm with my rainjacket on.

OK time to go buy some food: I have felt ravenous all day though I have actually eaten heaps!!!