It was my experience with the music at the Christmas Mass at Santa Maria Maggiore three years ago that made me want to be in Rome for Easter. It wasn't so much the music that blew me away this time, as the whole thing with candles and light. All the actions were deliberate and planned. From darkness the church gradually emerged into light. The Paschal candle was huge. Then the altar became bathed in light with many candles. It was a night of great beauty.